*In this new series, writers lift the lid behind the best days of their lives. These stories will cover moments of unfiltered joy, memories that make them—and you—laugh, and the people and places they fell head over heels in love with. First up, it's author, youth worker and activist Ciaran Thapar, on a transformative trip to India.*


It’s April 2014: weeks into a trip to India that will last several months, trailing from the mountainous far-north, where I begin, down via Punjab, to stay with family, to Jaipur, Pushkar, Delhi, Mumbai, Goa, and finally Cochin, Kerala, on the southern tip. 

It will forever pain me that this will be the last visit to the country of my father’s birth for I don’t know how long, despite several failed attempts to return across subsequent years. In one month’s time, a general election bringing the Hindu nationalist Prime Minister Narendra Modi into power of the largest democracy in the world will change things forever, making it more difficult for Muslims to live or travel there as they become an oppressed minority. 


So part of what makes the following memory so special—one I revisit constantly—is that it belongs to an era of young and blissful ignorance. When smartphones were still a novelty. When writing was my hobby and not my career. When being half-Indian—half-Hindu, if that’s possible—was something to be only proud of, not confused about. [Recalling it brings me peace.](https://woo.itv.com/posts/how-to-be-happy)

I wake up, roll out of bed, walk across the carpet and unzip our tent to let morning daylight pour inside. Birds tweet as I rub my eyes. I can peer through the nearby tree branches and follow the green canopy as it slopes upwards towards the urban bustle at the top of the mountain. Yesterday we were up there. Today, I’m glad to be down here. 

We liked Darjeeling town center, but we didn’t love it. The room at our hostel, which served masala dosas for 18 rupees, boasted epic, misty views of the Himalayas. But our nights’ sleep was soundtracked by incessant honking from cars and mopeds outside. For a few days we wandered around eating, shopping and stopping to read our books. 

We did a few touristy things. Visited the zoo, which was uncomfortable. Caught the famous train ride, which was ruined by the fog. Played chess at one of the dusty old colonial hotels, if only to shelter from rainfall, and therefore travel back in time—to be served, to our surprise, dainty British sandwiches instead of samosas, tea with milk instead of without it, like independence had never happened, like we might as well be back in Surrey.

So we went online in search of an easy escape and found one. We packed our backpacks and piled into a jeep, which wound down the valley, away from the honking and fog, towards the rolling pure green. After one hour, the vehicle’s battered tyres stopped beside a long path of Buddhist prayer flags leading down a zig-zag path from the bumpy road. The driver encouraged us to get out, with our bags, and follow it. 

Which is how we entered the tea farm yesterday afternoon.


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The farm is one of the few in the region still owned by local people. Resisting the machine automation brought in by a rising global demand, the leaves here are still hand-rolled. We paid upfront to stay for a few nights in a large tent, purpose-built for, and flown in from, the deserts of Rajasthan—where we were only a few weeks prior. Our fee includes unlimited tea and all our meals. 

We have breakfast in the open plan communal dining area: aloo puri and tea. We write our travel diaries at the table: mine is made of red fabric, with petal-pressed paper which makes my ink-pen run if I’m not careful. We read books on our veranda, before being invited on a trek with one of the tea farmers in the afternoon. He leads us for hours through the local tea plantations, pointing out growing produce as we go: garlic, spinach, pumpkin, more and more tea.

We stop to break by a stream and some rocks. Ganja plants grow all over these mountains; our guide has brought some harvested from the farm. He doesn’t need any rizla to smoke it. He skips over to a plant, strips off one of its leaves, tears and twists it carefully into a coil, and places a bud in the open end. As it is smoked, with the stream’s trickling water the only noise for miles, the makeshift pipe’s circular leaves burn gradually away, until all of it disappears into thin air. A sustainable habit.




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After four hours of walking we end up crossing the state border, from West Bengal to Sikkim, where they sell what our guide assures me is a much-loved, local strong beer called HIT. It has a black and red label with a dragon emblazoned on it. I buy a few bottles: some for me, some for the farmers. We’re picked up in a jeep and driven back to the farm. On arrival, half-an-hour later, shortly after sunset, the light pollution of the town up above beams into the star-filled night sky. 

In the farm’s dining area, beside candlelight, the chef asks me what meat I would like to eat. I say chicken. He nods and walks over to the coop at the back, grabs a chicken, breaks its neck, and starts plucking it. He lights two fires at the stove using dried branches, one underneath each karahi, and begins frying the tadkas. The smell of onion and garlic and cumin and more fills the air. We sit and drink our beers with the farmers. Dinner arrives: pakora, then chicken curry, aubergine curry and fresh chapatis. We eat well, refueling, before the farmers crack open homebrewed rice wine. We talk into the night.

At past midnight we stumble back to our tent. Before zipping it closed to sleep I turn to gaze up at the town again: an image of comfort and peace that becomes permanently carved onto my mind’s rearview mirror.
Yesterday we were up there. Today, I’m glad to be down here.

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‘Travel is about exposure to the world, but it is also about creating memories to escape to’


Finding Peace and Pride in Northeast India 

Ciaran Thapar

Higher States: The Power of a Transformative Holiday

Over the last two years, the world of work has changed a lot. We’ve endured endless Zoom meetings, kitchen tables have become ‘desks’ and the return to the office has left many wondering how the hell they used to commute five days a week. So it’s no surprise that many people have realised that, actually, they don’t want to do a job they hate, prompting what’s been dubbed ‘The Great Resignation’. In fact, in July last year, job vacancies reached one million, an all time high in the UK. To help you decide whether to jump ship, we speak to career experts about how to know if you should quit your job.

# What are the obvious signs that you should quit your job?

Does your work make you want to scream/cry/throw your laptop out the window on a regular basis? Yeah, you might want to find a new job. ‘If it's impacting your mental health and you're dreading it every morning, or you're feeling overwhelmed or very stressed, those things are worth listening to,’ says career coach [Alice Stapleton](https://www.alicestapleton.com/). Even if your job isn’t a total nightmare, if you feel you’re not progressing, it might be time to move on.
 
# Is it ever worth hanging on in a job you hate?

[Alexa Shoen](https://www.alexashoen.com/), career coach and author of ‘#ENTRYLEVELBOSS’, says it can be worth staying, but only if it’s to achieve a specific goal. ‘The way I help people assess this is: okay, your job sucks, but do you want your manager's job? If the answer is no, then let's go to your manager's manager's job. Do you think: I'm trying to become that person?’, she says. ‘If the answer to that is still no, then what are you doing?’.


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# What are the main things to consider before quitting your job?

If you’re planning on quitting without another job lined up, get ready to do some sums. You’ll need a financial buffer – ideally enough money to last you at least three months. ‘It comes down to what you can manage financially,’ says Stapleton. ‘You might be able to move home, stay with a friend or save up to carry you through while you're looking for a new role. Look at your outgoings and set a budget for how much you're going to put aside.’
 
# Are there practical steps you should go through?

See if you can resolve the issues that are making you unhappy. ‘If it’s a frustration around pay or progression, has that been discussed? Or if it’s about the role, is there an alternative?’, says Stapleton. If you keep telling yourself you’re going to quit but you never actually do it, Shoen advises setting a deadline. ‘The task expands to fit the time allotted, especially if you don't have a real “reason” to leave, you're just unhappy and you want to make the change.’ She suggests telling a friend (maybe one who also hates their job) to make sure you stick to your deadline.
 


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# Is quitting your job without another one lined up a bad move?

Leaving your job without a new position can actually help you get into a better mindset when job hunting. ‘Sometimes you can't get the headspace in your current situation because it’s screwing with you inside and out,’ says Shoen. If you do have a break from work, Stapleton says to ‘use that time wisely’. She adds: ‘Have some goals of how many applications you want to do, or an action plan to keep you on track.’
 
# Is rage-quitting ever a good idea?

You’ve fantasised about the moment you get to slam your resignation letter down on the table with a pithy one-liner aimed at your terrible boss, right? But Shoen says that it probably won’t feel as good as you think. ‘Often, the fantasy of quitting feels so cathartic, but prepare for it to not feel satisfying,’ she says. As tempting as it is to want to go out in a blaze of glory, she advises taking the high road: ‘Be the one who leaves on a good note, because you're getting out.’


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Thinking of joining "The Great Resignation"? Read our expert-led guide first

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Is it time to quit your job? 

Isabelle Aron

Since the first announcement of Studio Ghibli’s theme park in 2017, we’ve been ticking over with *Spirited Away* and *Princess Mononoke* rewatches. Finally, it’s opening its gates this year – November 1 can’t come soon enough! Hayao Miyazaki and the team behind hauntingly beautiful films like *Howl’s Moving Castle* and My *Neighbour Totoro* are giving us what we’ve all been yearning for – a chance to escape into their magical world. 

Journalist Oona McGee, [reporting for](https://soranews24.com/2022/05/05/a-visit-to-the-studio-ghibli-theme-park-for-a-secret-look-at-the-new-areas/) *SoraNews24*, got an inside look at the unfinished site. It’s located in the massive Expo 2005 Aichi Commemorative Park in Nagoya, Japan – much is still under construction, but there is enough to get a real feel for what’s to come.

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Studio Ghibli theme park Japan

From McGee’s report, we know that there’s an elevator that takes you from the station to the park, with dark wood and typical Ghibli architecture [inspired](https://soranews24.com/2022/05/05/a-visit-to-the-studio-ghibli-theme-park-for-a-secret-look-at-the-new-areas/) by “the fantasy scientific world of the late 19th century”. The map shows Mononoke Village at the top right, which leads on to Witch’s Valley (with aesthetic elements from *Howl’s Moving Castle* and *Kiki’s Delivery Service*) – both of these sections are opening in August 2023. Then, walking clockwise you reach Dondoko Forest, Ghibli’s Grand Warehouse, and finally the Hill of Youth which will be the entrance to the park. 


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Studio Ghibli theme park map Japan

An almost finished construction of the Earth Shop (a la *Whisper of the Heart*) and a fully erected house from *My Neighbour Totoro* were also visible on the whistlestop tour. Unfortunately there was no glimpse of the Catbus just yet.

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Studio Ghibli elevator tower Japan 

Previously, Studio Ghibli [released an illustration](https://www.polygon.com/22916735/studio-ghibli-theme-park-opening-date-location-images) of the *My Neighbour Totoro* section of the park, which showcased huge replicas of the film’s iconic scenes. A trailer, created by Toshio Suzuki and Keisuke Hayao Miyazaki, was a whimsical short film that teased what’s to come. Animated in the familiar style of the renowned Japanese animation studio, a young girl explores various parts of the park, following the wind through each attraction. A 16-metre tall version of *Howl*’s Castle has also been promised, as well as a Totoro playroom, and 6.3-metre long replica of an airship from *Laputa: Castle in the Sky.*

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Studio Ghibli Park house

The focus of the Ghibli theme park is recreating the movies that have captured generation’s hearts, totally immersing visitors in everything Ghibli. Instead of passively sitting on rollercoasters, patrons will get the full main character experience. There will be a range of delicious eateries at the park too serving up IRL versions of the Ghibli franchise, with a confirmed *Spirited Away* themed restaurant (although, hopefully it won’t turn you into pigs like Chihiro‘s parents). 

Tickets are super affordable too. To enter a single area, children’s tickets start from 500 yen and adult tickets from 1,000 yen (this is around only £3-£6 respectively). All-inclusive tickets to Dondoko Forest, Ghibli’s Grand Warehouse, and Hill of Youth start from 4,000 yen (£25) for adults and 2,000 yen (£12.50) for children. The park is expecting to receive 1.8 million visitors a year, of course. We are counting down the days…

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My Neighbour Totoro

My Neighbour Totoro, Studio Ghibli

See inside the adventure park – with its My Neighbour Totoro house and Spirited Away trail – which will open November 2022

Peek inside the Studio Ghibli theme park in Japan

Eve Walker

With summer creeping closer, our plans of jetting off to faraway corners of the globe – escaping the monotony (and miserable weather) of our everyday lives – are almost upon us. 

While the summer marks many people’s first proper holiday since the pandemic began, it will also see an unfortunately very familiar character return, and descend on Europe: the Brit abroad. The sunscreen slathered boomers refusing to speak in any other language, and the freshly graduated (and overly-slaughtered) 18 year-olds on their first trip abroad.

And this hasn't gone unnoticed. Destinations including Ibiza and Mallorca, famous for their party scenes which bring in over 10 million tourists a year, recently [announced a crackdown on drinking laws ](https://mixmag.net/read/ibiza-drinking-restrictions-fines-tourists-news)on the islands. Tourists found to break these new rules could be fined up to 6,000 euros, while establishments could face up to 600,000 euros, along with forced closure of up to three years.

With this in mind, perhaps it’s time to rethink how we conduct ourselves as visitors at these party-centric locations. But fear not: here’s a quick guide on how to ethically party abroad this summer.


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# Respect the local community and environment

“There are many environmental challenges that [Balearic Islands] face,” Kate Benyon-Tinker from [IbizaPreservation,](https://ibizapreservation.org/) a non-profit organisation that campaigns for the environmental protection of the region, tells Woo. “A lot of which are related to human pressure, and the increasing number of tourists that we see year on year.” 

“One of which is water resources: there is an issue in terms of providing enough water for the usage of the number of people who kind of flood onto the island during the summer months because it's a very large amount of people in a very short concentrated time.”

Benyon-Tinker adds that there has been “a gradual and continued decline” in the quality of bathing water in the islands – partly caused by party-goers and tourists year on year. “We’re also seeing a rise in plastic pollution too: more microplastics in the water and a huge amount of plastic pollution on shorelines.” 

Sarah, 22, is a regular punter in Malia, a popular party destination in Greece, from Manchester. On her trips, she’d see the local beaches covered in litter. “I do not think that party goers have locals in mind at all. I think we’re so disrespectful to the community and the country,” she says. 


Plastic pollution is a far-reaching and devastating issue in our global marine ecosystem but is particularly prevalent in areas with increased tourism. In the face of such a monumental issue, it’s easy to feel hopeless. Luckily, Benyon-Tinker assures us there are “many simple things you can do to help.” 

It might seem obvious, but cutting down plastic use while you party can make a small – but tangible – difference. “Things like bringing reusable water bottles or reusing shopping bags can help.” She says. “Also, chemicals in traditional sunscreen cause damage to local marine life so it’s important to use eco-friendly, chemical-free sunscreen.”

If you’re a smoker, it’s important to be mindful of where you stub it out too. Cigarette butts account for more than [766 million kilograms of toxic trash ](http://ncr.emb.gov.ph/shareworthyarticle/cigarette-butts-account-for-766-million-kilos-of-trash-yearly/#:~:text=Cigarette%20butts%20account%20for%20more,Nations%20Environment%20Program%20(UNEP).)each year. They take years to degrade - when they eventually do, they release harmful microplastics and toxins. “These can be particularly harmful to our marine life; so please if you’re a smoker be thoughtful of where you put your cigarette butts – not in the ocean or the beach,” Benyon-Tinker adds. 



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# Know your limits

Not only should you be mindful of the environment, you should be mindful of yourself too. “It’s a very toxic environment. There are a lot of people who have just left home for the first time – no one is there to tell them what to do so they just go mad. There's a lot of booze and a lot of drugs.” Sarah told Woo, recalling her experience in Malia over the last two years.

Party destinations can feel far from home, which is a great thing. They can provide a much-needed feeling of escapism and release. But taking it too far and exceeding your limits can also be dangerous.

Sarah recalls a term widely used by party-goers called ‘the Malia shakes’, where your body shakes from dehydration and alcohol abuse. It goes to show how important it is to listen to your body and, if you feel unwell, take it slow. Unfortunately, some don’t follow this message.  In 2014, a 22-year-old from Ireland [sadly died of alcohol poisoning](https://www.irishmirror.ie/news/irish-news/health-news/22-year-old-man-died-after-downing-4092251) after downing dozens of vodka and Red Bull cocktails during a three-day booze binge.


# Try new things

Travel broadens the mind. Immersing ourselves in different cultures and giving us the opportunity to speak with individuals we otherwise wouldn't. I get it: you’ve been planning this ‘lad’s holiday’ for months and you’re ready to hit the bottle first as soon as you feel the gush of warm air stepping off the plane. But take some time to appreciate your new surroundings: refrain from the all-inclusive English breakfast, and try some of the local cuisines; make friends with the locals or explore 

Harry, 25, from Leeds, did just that on his recent trip to Ibiza. He stayed in the secluded and tranquil northeastern region of the Island. “It totally changed my perception of Ibiza,” he notes, “I spent most of my time on beaches we had just to ourselves. We stayed in an Airbnb in a remote field, surrounded by goats – it was worlds apart from the Ibiza I was expecting.”

So how to do as the locals do and find the authenticity on party islands? Check out the recently relaunched [Trippin’](https://trippin.world/) for one, an independent platform that connects travel, culture, and creativity, with local guides by cool, creative local people. Multidisciplinary artist Ana Sting, for example, [gives a guide to holistic retreats and spiritual practices in Ibiza.
](https://trippin.world/guide/ibizas-magical-crystal-mountain-is-any-meditators-dream)


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With summer creeping closer, our plans of jetting off to faraway corners of the globe – escaping the monotony (and miserable weather) of our everyday lives are almost upon us


Don’t be a dick abroad: an ethical guide to partying this summer

long read

Jack Ramage

She’s serving. 

Have you ever wanted to see a beautiful, gigantic hole? Well, while you’re collecting your mind from the gutter, your prayers might’ve just been answered. A huge 630ft-deep sinkhole has been found in China. This wondrous (and slightly terrifying) hole is home to a stunning ancient forest range, with trees growing as tall as 131ft. Pretty neat, huh?

Cave explorers came across the sinkhole near Ping’e village in Leye County of the Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region earlier this month. According to the Xinhua news agency, the sinkhole is 630ft (192m) deep and measures 1,000ft (304m) in length and 490ft (149m) in width. (For people with no spatial awareness, basically: it’s big). 

Most fascinatingly, a “well-preserved primitive forest” of trees grows on the bottom of the sinkhole. “I wouldn’t be surprised to know that there are species found in these caves that have never been reported or described by science until now,” Chen Lixin, leader of the cave expedition team, told Xinhua.

China’s Guangxi region is known for its huge sinkholes. In November 2019, Xinhua reported the discovery of a giant cluster in the Guangxi region. Before this, in 2016, scientists discovered the world’s largest cluster of sinkholes in Shaanxi province in northwest China. The South China Sea is also home to the world’s deepest underwater sinkhole.


Most fascinatingly, a “well-preserved primitive forest” of trees grows on the bottom of the sinkhole. “I wouldn’t be surprised to know that there are species found in these caves that have never been reported or described by science until now,” Chen Lixin, leader of the cave expedition team, told Xinhua.

China’s Guangxi region is known for its huge sinkholes. In November 2019, Xinhua reported the discovery of a giant cluster in the Guangxi region. Before this, in 2016, scientists discovered the world’s largest cluster of sinkholes in Shaanxi province in northwest China. The South China Sea is also home to the world’s deepest underwater sinkhole.

Why are there so many in China? Sinkholes happen in most places (in the UK, they’re just pretty underwhelming by comparison). They’re formed when land surface collapses or sinks into cavities in the ground. Drought and flooding (which is particularly common in parts of China) can make conditions favourable for sinkholes to form.

These holes can be scary, of course. In 2020, six people were killed when a sinkhole swallowed a bus in northwest China. And in 2016, a huge sinkhole opened in the middle of a busy road. Last year, another sinkhole opened during floods in China’s Zhengzhou region and several people were sucked into it. 

Let’s file them next to black holes in the “holes that should not be messed with” category. 


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scientists discover huge sinkhole with stunning ancient forest growing inside


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Cluster of 19 Giant Sinkholes in Southern China image

scientists discover huge sinkhole with stunning ancient forest growing inside

Louis Staples

From high prices to crowded, stuffy tube cars, and late busses – London’s transport system seems to be a constant source of stress for those trying to navigate their way around the city. In fact, a [survey](https://docs.cdn.yougov.com/rhokagcmxq/Globalism2020%20Guardian%20Climate%20and%20Lifestyle%20after%20COVID.pdf) run for the YouGov-Cambridge Globalism Project revealed that 23% of people in Great Britain are using their cars more post-lockdown, resulting in over half of harmful, transport-based carbon dioxide emissions coming from car usage. Meanwhile, coupled with rising fuel and energy prices, we can’t blame people for not being excited to travel. 

Luckily, however, it does seem that cities around the world are taking note. From Estonia to Malta, and Luxembourg – over 100 destinations across Europe have abolished fees for transport, opening up the door for accessible travel. So – whether you’re planning your next summer holiday or simply a Francis Bourgeois-style train-spotting superfan – we’ve broken down five places doing transport right. 

## Vienna, Austria

While the push for more accessible transport has increased since COVID, Vienna has offered passes for unlimited transport access for an annual fee of €365 (only one euro per day!) since 2012. Today, nearly half of the city’s two million-person population has one – with 38% of all journeys made my public transportation and 27% made by walking.

## Tallinn, Estonia

Tallinn, Estonia’s capital city on the Baltic Sea, has offered free public transport since 2013 – making it the largest city, and first capital in Europe to scrap transport fees. To purchase, people from Tallinn or those visiting can buy a personalised “green card” which allows them to travel place-to-place at zero-costs.


## Malta

Okay, sure… this one hasn’t exactly started yet, but bear with us! On October 1, 2022, Malta will officially become the second country in the world to make its public transport system free for all residents. Hoping to encourage people to use public transport and reduce congestion on the roads, the country’s former prime minister even claimed that one day, he’d like commuters to be paid for using public transport. 

## Dunkirk, France

Looking to visit the sets from Harry Styles’ 2017 action drama? You’re in luck! After testing it out in 2019, the Northern French city has offered a new, cost-free bus system, hoping to revitalise the city centre and help out the environment. 

## Luxembourg

In 2020, Luxembourg became the first country in the world to offer public transport completely free-of-cost. According to research, over 10,000 more people have started using public transport each day since the switch… we love to see it.

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Social Income

From Estonia to Vienna and Dunkirk, we’ve gathered up the best, most-accessible places to hop on a train when you’re travelling

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Peek inside the Studio Ghibli theme park in Japan