It’s show and tell backstage at Masha Popova A/W 2024
Spliced denim, matted animal prints and clawed talons dominated the Ukrainian designer’s moodboard
Spliced denim, matted animal prints and clawed talons dominated the Ukrainian designer’s moodboard
inside masha popova a/w 2024
inside masha popova a/w 2024
There are brands that step into a new world each season and find recognition in shock value, and then there are brands that hone a niche and find success in crafting signatures. Ukrainian designer Masha Popova is undoubtedly the latter. On and off the runway, the informed eye can quickly spot Popova’s slashed and scrunched denim, inspired by her love for the 2000s.
The Central Saint Martins graduate brought the same bold energy to her A/W 2024 collection ‘Glisten’ with long, washed out denims, matted animal print jersey and slouchy sheer tops. This time, instead of paying homage to the Britney-inspired Y2K butterfly styles, the designer stepped ahead into the 2010s, the decade of her teens.
skin, denim and gloss
skin, denim and gloss
woo went backstage at Popova’s London Fashion Week opening day show to watch the models get fitted and glammed up before they strutted down the runway. As expected, it was a fever dream carefully crafted for Gen Z who grew up on the scandal and fashion of Skins and The Bling Ring. Broad braided belts were draped over exposed hip bones and chunky globes were crafted as mixed metal pendants as celestial motifs abounded.
The nails at Popova deserve a show of their own; eagle inspired talons that claw and clutch were designed to match the asymmetrical snakeskin embossed on the clothing. On the feet, Popova featured sock boots mimicking the printed denim that dictated her collection. There were also fur-trimmed shoes – watching the models hop along on them felt like a manic pixie manifestation, looking hot, stepping on clouds and meowing with claws.
When you manage to take your eyes off the layers, you’d see sheer ruffled thongs (from Zylova) peeking through the sultry cut-out bottoms. For beauty, the designer chose shimmering pouts – the kind of sticky gloss that lipstick candy would leave – while eyes were lined with black kohl and lids painted with metallic hues.
Popova is among the crop of indie designers in London that demand attention. Yet she isn't unaware of the challenges that a young brand faces in the big, bad industry. While this collection is another love letter to crossover denims and slouchy silhouettes, it’s also the designer’s commentary on the struggles a fledgling label faces. By deconstructing popular fashion touchpoints of the it-girl decade, Popova draws on nostalgia to ask people for space in the here and now.
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