Denim was the real main character at LFW 2024

From Ahluwalia to Masha Popova to Charli XCX, everyone is wearing denim in fashion

By Darshita Goyal19 Feb 2024

3 mins read time

Let’s be honest, denim never really left fashion for it to make a comeback. 2023 was the year of the denim midi skirt, however you wore it; slit through the centre, side or back, fringed at the end or criss-crossed at the waist. In September last year, luxury fashion renewed this new lease of life on denim. Spring/Summer 2024 collections featured heaps of casual styles: Loewe’s high waisted denim pants, Diesel’s washed-out ensemble and Dior’s denim on denim skirt set.

Photo by Hollie Hilton

In fact, as per luxury e-tailer Matches’ seasonal report, the company increased their investment in the washed out fabric by 10 per cent for 2024. So it’s no surprise that this fashion month is witnessing a denim overload on the streets and on the runway. Right from the get-go in Copenhagen, where oversized scarves and towering silhouettes were punctuated with casual denim-on denim-looks.

Munthe featured skirts, shirts and even suits in the rugged material while Gestuz served a modern, sparkly take on the Canadian tuxedo, an infamous moniker for denim jeans paired with a jacket in the same fabric. Won Hundred also showed a strapless, crop top with an exaggerated denim detailing along the collarbone, revealing subtle ways of wearing the timeless style.

This enchantment with Americana trickled down through New York Fashion Week, before reachingLondon’s streets and shows. Day one of LFW A/W24 saw Ukrainian designer Masha Popova’s new collection ‘Glisten’ which channelled the 2010s through washed-out, scrunched up denim. Pants were low-waist and featured cut outs while the blue fabric also made an appearance in halter tops, jackets and matted hoodies.

Similarly, Indian designer Kanika Goyal debuted at LFW with Arc Echo, a collection of tailored jackets, dresses and trousers crafted from strips of deadstock denim. The standout piece from the presentation was a denim co-ord set elevated by a provocative, mosaic design. At JW Anderson, Charli XCX sat front row wearing a striped blue shirt and casual straight cut denim jeans, while hints of the fabric also made guest appearances at Samara Scott’s runway for Fashion East.

Even Priya Ahluwalia’s eponymous label championed denim in its latest show. Titled ‘Reveries’, the collection spotlighted a unique take on classic dark blue denim. Printed with light chequered blue, it was framed as a halter mini dress and a Texan co-ord set with raised collars. When worn as low rise jeans with waves in shades of blue it was paired with a vibrant orange-green vest.

At Ahluwalia, the denim became both the main character and the cast that supports the designer’s nostalgic take on her Indian-Nigerian heritage, and this malleable quality is perhaps what makes denim so attractive. Unlike ruffles, peplum, velvet or velour that either take centre stage or distract, denim adapts to its wearer’s style and mood. “As young people embrace nostalgia and prefer casual styles, denim is becoming a mainstay in fashion. Its versatility and durability makes it feel like a second skin,” Goyal tells woo.

Online trend analyst Data But Make It Fashion also reported an 8.1 per cent increase in searches for denim on denim looks since January 17. In the comments, people take a stab at guessing why the fabric is back. From being a possible signaller of recession to Beyoncé’s upcoming country album and the rise of fringe American aesthetics, the overwhelming response to denim’s popularity was positive. As one user said, “what in the Justin and Britney is going on here?” Whatever it is, we’re not questioning it; just happy to keep wearing our denim midis and washed out trousers.

For all the latest from fashion week, check out our rolling reviews, think pieces and trend round-ups at the woo hub here.